In my experience, people underestimate Spain. We are under the impression that we must go to an unfamiliar place like Moscow, Xi’an, Bengaluru, Istanbul or Addis Ababa to truly experience another culture.
Because Spanish influence is strongly present in American culture, the novelty of Spain’s identity is overlooked. I must admit that while I was ecstatic to be studying abroad, I didn’t expect the tiny coastal town of Santander to be as awe-inspiring, breathtaking and pleasantly unfamiliar as it is.
The city itself is a hidden gem. On my first day, my host mom took me on a walk along El Sardinero beach and treated me to the finest ice cream in the city, a swirl of “limón y crema tostada,” or lemon and toasted cream. As we chatted in Spanish, walking on the cobblestone road taking in the sea breeze and vine-covered brick walls, she confessed, “Today is ugly, grey, and it’s not sunny.”
I couldn’t believe she was calling the day anything other than beautiful, until a few days later, when the sun shone and the whole town lit up with color. The sea becomes a shifting mosaic of ultramarine with turquoise and emerald hues. There are frothy waves crashing onto the soft, fine sand. Everywhere, there are gigantic clusters of “hortensias,” or hydrangeas, that bloom in an ombre of periwinkle, fuchsia and amethyst.
The crimson and canary flag of Spain can be seen rippling in the wind atop the beige stone tower of the Magdalena Palace. Facing the bay, there are four copper statues of cowboy orphans who dove into the sea to retrieve coins, with splashes across their faces from the salt spray.
But Santander is more than a relaxing, gorgeous beach town. It’s a hub for Spanish culture and particularly that of its region, Cantabria. On the walk to the University of Cantabria, where I take my Spanish lessons, I pass by the Real Racing Stadium, where Santander’s soccer matches are held.
Overlooking the bay is the futuristic semicircular art museum on stilts, “Centro Botín.” Centro Botín is owned by the Botín family who also own Santander Bank.
All along the narrow streets, there is laundry hanging from the windows, tiny cars parallel parked and tables lined up beside flung open doors of restaurants. These restaurants emanate the aroma of tapas, which are appetizers like patatas bravas, fried potatoes with a spicy sauce; tortilla española, potato omelet; and rabas, fried squid.
There is enough in Santander to occupy me for my stay in Spain, but it is also within an hour of many other unique locations. One popular day trip destination is Liérganes, a city steeped in the myth of “El Hombre-Pez,” the man lost at sea who returned with fish scales. In Liérganes, I enjoyed the best churros that I’ve tasted so far.
Another favorite place is Comillas, where Antoni Gaudi’s home, “El Capricho,” is located. The extravagant house with sunflower tiles and claustrophobic spiral staircases is marvelous. Then there’s “Santillana del Mar,” a medieval town, and “Altamira,” where prehistoric cave art was found. These are just a short bus ride away.
The capital of Spain and home of the Guggenheim Art Museum, Bilbao, is so close that some Santanderinos, or locals of Santander, commute there to work. And yet Bilbao is located in the Basque region, a culturally distinct part of Spain that crosses into France.
The first language printed on the Guggenheim museum map is Basque, known as the only indigenous language in Europe. Since the Romans did not conquer the area, Basque is one of the few languages in the world that has no connections or roots to any other language.
Spain is not only linguistically diverse (there are four official languages and regional dialects), but it is religiously diverse as well. Nowhere did I see this more saliently than in Toledo, “la ciudad de las tres culturas,” or the City of Three Cultures. The wealth of history in this city can be represented by the Synagogue of Saint Mary the White.
The synagogue is located in the Jewish Quarter, which is commemorated with three types of little blue tiles including, a menorah, the Hebrew word for life and an abstraction of the Iberian Peninsula. It is the oldest standing synagogue in the world, but it was built by Muslims, as demonstrated by the horseshoe shaped arches and intricate swirling designs. When Queen Isabella banished all non-Catholics from the unified kingdoms of Castile and Argon in 1492, the synagogue was converted to a church, and a cross still hangs from the center wall.
Like this synagogue, Spanish culture is an amalgamation. What people don’t realize is that Spain is a kaleidoscope of different cultures mixed together, overlapping and interlinking and spiraling in opposite directions. When people think of Spain, they think flamenco music, paella and bull fights.
But, the guitar of flamenco music comes from the Arab sitar instrument and the dance itself originated from the Roma living in Andalusia. The seafood and culinary art of paella would not be possible without the introduction and supply of rice and saffron by the Moors. The concept of bull-fighting is almost certainly inspired by the Roman gladiators.
Spain is built of many cultures and that is what makes it both distinct and a rabbit hole of backstories. The most shocking thing I’ve realized during my time here is that I’ve only explored the north of Spain. There is so much more in Madrid, Barcelona and Málaga that I haven’t seen. Maybe I will return on another study abroad program next year.
This post was contributed by Samantha Ho, a Global Ambassador for Summer 2024. Samantha is a sophomore plan II and special education studies major studying abroad in Santander, Spain.
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